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Dog Behavior Library
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Dog
Food-Related Aggression
Desensitization Program
During this
program, avoid any punishment
and ignore the dog unless during
a training or exercise session.
There
are several "stages"
of developing food aggression
in dogs. Since each dog is an individual,
every dog does not follow this
pattern. Often the owner does
not notice the pattern until it
is an ingrained problem. Here
are the typical stages:
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1)
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Eats
faster if approached - dog
may see others as competition |
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2)
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Freezes or shows "tense" increased
muscle tone when someone
comes near |
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3) |
Lip lifting or growling
- a low level but clear
threat |
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4)
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Air snaps - a clear indication
a bite is coming |
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5) |
Some
mouthing contact with no
harm done - if willing
to make aggressive contact
then consider case severe |
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6)
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Leaves the food to charge
the
intruder - highest level
of threat short of full
attack |
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When a dog sits on cue
before gaining a reward,
this simple change has a stabilizing
effect on most dog personalities.
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The protocol below
is intended for dogs exhibiting
aggression toward family members
when near the food bowl. This
behavior modification plan is intended to
communicate to the dog the
following three things.
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1)
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The owner is
not threatening. |
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2)
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The owner is
the source of the food,
and therefore an approach is
a good thing. |
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3) |
The owner controls
the food and is therefore
a higher ranking individual. |
 One
goal is to develop
a new routine. For example
when a dog sits on cue before
gaining a reward, this simple change has a stabilizing
effect on most dog personalities.
Finally,
this protocol builds a positive
bond between owner and pet,
and strengthens the SIT,
STAY and COME Instructions. If the
dog does not know these
basic Instructions, enroll in a
basic obedience class, concurrent
with this program.
Some cases require
medication with professional
assistance and behavior medication to get results
quickly. The strategy is to
reduce mental stress and anxiety
temporarily so the dog can
easily learn new habit patterns.
Then the medication is phased
out. If the program is not
progressing, contact your
veterinarian to evaluate the possible
need for this medication.
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The
most common mistake is to
try to go too quickly. It
is not uncommon for all
the steps described below
to take several weeks to
complete. |
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1)
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Do
not leave any food down
for the dog. Feed only dry
kibble, not canned or scraps. |
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2)
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Use
a different food bowl, preferably
with a long handle such
as an old saucepan. |
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3) |
Begin
to feed the dog in a new
location, at least 10 feet
from the previous location.
It is ideal to vary the
feeding spot frequently
during each feeding and
for each subsequent feeding.
This eliminates any territorial
component of the aggression. |
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4)
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When
charging is a concern, tie
the dog during feeding
so that he can reach the
food dish but not chase
you if provoked. |
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5) |
Measure
the normal amount of food but do not provide it all
at once. |
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6)
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Place
a few kibbles in the bowl
in your hand and ask the
dog to SIT. |
| 7) |
It
is VERY important that YOUR
OWN body postures and voice
tone be relaxed and happy. |
| 8) |
If the dog does shows any
aggression
related postures, or refuses
to sit, do not reprimand.
Simply put the food out
of reach and move out of
sight for several seconds.
Return, and repeat the SIT
Instruction. If the dog is
uninterested in food,
either skip the meal or
feed 25% of the normal amount,
and wait until next meal. |
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9) |
If the dog sits, lower the
dish, keep your hand
on the bowl, and allow
the dog to eat the kibble.
It is ok to offer some high
value food like chicken
bits to speed up the acceptance.
If the dog still refuses
the food, give no reprimand,
act neutral, but put the
food away, and come back
later. |
| 10) |
If the dog accepts the food,
raise the bowl, and place
a few more kibble. Back
up a few feet and call
the dog using the COME Instruction.
If the dog comes too quickly,
give the STAY Instruction, before
COME. Try to work with Instructions
for at least 30 seconds. |
| 11) |
Repeat
the SIT Instruction, and if
the dog is quickly obeying,
add the DOWN or another Instruction.
The goal is for the dog
to learn he must earn any
food by obeying whatever
non-threatening Instruction
you give. Therefore, do
not use a low threatening
tone for Instructions. If
the dog misbehaves, simply
remove the food and give
the dog a few minutes of
"time out" while
tied. |
| 12) |
When the dog seems relaxed
with you present, begin
to pet the dog with one
hand while holding the bowl
in the other, while the
dog is eating the food.
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| 13) |
Once
you are comfortable that
the dog is totally relaxed
and happily anticipating
the food being lowered,
begin to let go of the handle
when when empty. Reach for
the handle and pick up the
bowl. If any aggressive
postures are observed, begin
this protocol over again. |
| 14) |
Once there is no problem
reaching for the empty bowl,
begin to place a larger
quantity, (e.g. 30% of total
food) in the bowl at a time.
Now have only kibble in
the bowl, but try to drop
pieces of high value food
near, or in the bowl. Watch
to see if the dog is happy
to see your hand coming. |
| 15) |
Confirm
that the dog is relaxed
being touched while eating,
and allowing you to reach
for the empty bowl. If so,
the next step is to give
an even larger quantity
(50%) of the dry kibble,
but bring your hand near
the bowl for the purpose
of dropping in a special
treat like chicken or smelly
cheese. |
| 16) |
At
times other than feeding,
give the dog a gentle loving
body massage or grooming
session. Try to include
every part of the body.
When you feel the dog is
fully relaxed with the feeding
protocol, begin to groom
or massage the dog while
eating.
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Look for a tense "frozen
posture" body stance, and if
seen, stop and move away.
This often indicates the
first sign of pending
aggression |
If this occurs, back up
on the protocol, and go
more slowly, or call your
behaviorist or trainer to
develop a dog-specific protocol
for preventing or reducing
canine aggression. |
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