Creating kinder, gentler experiences for pets


     

Need Help? 

Call 1-800-372-3706
to speak to a Veterinary Behavior Technician


Paws for Help!
 

 

Help is at your fingertips by library, email and phone!

 

Helpful Links 


Cat Aggression to Kitten

Cat Housemate Fighting


Feline Body Language

    

 Cat Behavior Library  


Feline Aggression Toward Cats

Aggression Toward Kittens

It has been observed that occasionally a male cat will kill young kittens. This is possible, and usually occurs in free ranging cats where a new "Tomcat" (unneutered male) enters and takes over an existing group. Killing the young kittens facilitates the queen coming into season again. It has been postulated (Overall, 1997) that this function ensures male cat certainty in paternity for kittens raised on resources in his territory.
Very rarely a female will kill her own young. This is thought to reflect a poor maternal instinct, coupled with an abnormally elevated predatory instinct. If this occurs, the queen should be spayed.

In multiple cat households, cats may fight if resources are limited.  Resources include food, water, scratching posts, beds, litterboxes and human attention.  Up the resources to lower the aggression.

Aggression Between Adult Cats

Cats often fight among themselves for a variety of reasons including fighting over territory or a female in heat. If allowed to roam, all cats are at much higher risk for disease and fight injuries than neutered cats. In some cases, the cats will never get along, and must be permanently separated. However, in most cases it is recommended to keep cats 100% indoors, and follow some simple guidelines to keep the number of cats down, and the positive social interaction up.

Prevention:  Protocol For Introducing A New Cat Into A Household (See below for fighting cats.)

  • Introduce the new cat to an enclosed area (e.g. separate bedroom or bathroom) for 1 - 2 weeks.
  • Allow a minimum of 3 days for the new cat to explore and gain confidence.  A darkened room that is not in use is preferred. For some unsocialized fearful animals, this can take weeks.
  • Feed both (all) cats meals, on either side of closed doors.
  • Allow cats to hear and smell each other, but not see or touch.
  • Observe body language from alternate sides of the door. If either cat is upset, move food back from the door. Measure the distance from the door, at which each cat seems consistently relaxed, and is ignoring the other.
  • Rotate litterbox and cat bed to each cat introduce the new scents. Rub a towel on each, and let the other sniff this scent, while praising and petting
  • Once all cats are eating easily and relaxed, allow sight but no contact. E.g. hold door open 1-2 inches, or feed both (all) cats in same room, with new cat in a carrier with wire front. If the existing cats hassle the new cat, place the carrier up on a table, so the new cat can look down on the others.
  • When cats can eat near each other with relaxed body posture, begin to allow the new cat out, while other cats are locked away. Let the new cat explore and relax in the new environment.
  • At least initially, provide one litterbox per cat plus one extra. Remove unused boxes after 2 weeks of non-use.
  • Ignore minor squabbles. If serious fights occur, separate the cats and follow the protocol below.
Act jolly and relaxed around the cats to prevent them from picking up anxiety, stress or anger from you.

Protocol To Reduce Fighting Between Housemate Cats

  • Have both cats fully checked for minor irritating medical conditions.
  • Neuter all pets involved in aggression to remove any hormonal component.
  • If the aggression involves cats who have lived together for 1 month or longer, then isolate the aggressor cat (lower its status). Do this even if there are times that the cats get along fine. Before any fight, the aggressor cat typically "stares" at the other cat, who moves away.
  • Allow time for the aggressor to "chill" in isolation. Try for a darkened room when not in use to cause an aggressively aroused cat to calm down. For some animals this can take days.
  • Begin feeding cats meals twice a day, and don't leave any food down between meals.
  • Feed both cats meals, on either side of closed door.
  • Once all cats are eating easily and relaxed, allow sight but no contact. If body muscle tone of both cats is relaxed, proceed to the next step.
  • Confine each in its own wire front kennel, and place them several feet apart for dinner. Now they can see each other as well as hear and smell, but still cannot touch. If they show any tenseness or twitching, turn the boxes or move them further away. If they are relaxed, move them closer and closer. Tenseness may vary meal to meal. Just follow what the tenseness dictates for that meal.
  • If you can only use one portable kennel, place it up on a table, so the new cat can look down on the former aggressor or other cats.
  • When the two target cats are ignoring each other, allow short periods where the previously confined cat has free access to other cats (e.g. 10 minutes).
  • Dab a spot of a food flavor on the cat, for positive association. Do this just before feeding. Then feed in same room but at a distance. Gradually lower this distance daily, but continue to separate the cats when not supervised.
Blood work, urinalysis and fecal exams are indicated to completely rule out a physical irritation before starting behavior modification.
  • If fights occur during supervision, shoo away aggressor, then separate and go more slowly. Ignore minor squabbles. If really fighting, isolate and restart the protocol.
  • If allowed free together and no sign of aggression, Begin "cross lap petting." Two known people sit on a couch, each with one cat on their lap. For safety, it is recommended that each person have a large towel on their lap, which they can use to wrap up a cat who becomes aggressively aroused. Each person pets the cat on the OTHER person's lap, then back to their own. (Distributing scent and affection.)
  • At all times, act jolly and relaxed around the cats so they don't pick up stress, anger or anxiety from you. Praise and give food treats while acting relaxed and friendly toward each other.
  • At least initially, provide one litterbox per cat plus one extra. Remove unused boxes after 2 weeks of non-use.
  • Use medication as a last alternative. The goal is transient use during behavior modification, to help make it go smoothly. One altercation due to going too fast can set the entire process back by weeks. The medication recommended has few side effects and does not cause sedation when dosed properly.

MyABN      Library      Contact ABN       Privacy Policy 

Copyright © 2001-Present - All Rights Reserved - Rolan Tripp, DVM and Susan Tripp, MS  | Animal Behavior Network & Affiliates