What is it with some cats? You take
them in off the street and provide
the lap of luxury, and they repay
you by peeing on your carpet - or
worse.
Cat pee is too big a topic to cover
in one column, so I am going to
assume you have had your leaky cat
checked by your veterinarian. Thirty
percent of the time, the problem is
medical. I will further assume that
you have already provided numerous
litter boxes, and clean them twice a
day. The advice here is indicated
when the wayward urine is directed
down onto the floor and not sprayed
up onto walls like some urban
territorial tagger.
If you love a toilet-intransigent
cat (don't admit this publicly), or
consider yourself a cat lover, read
on to discover the secret world of
litter testing and retraining.
For a human comparison, consider
people who are remodeling their
bathrooms. Some people would just
ask the contractor to deliver the
most inexpensive toilet. But other
more discriminating people might
object to the cheap seats, and
actually go to the toilet show room,
and struggle over look and feel.
These same people might also
carefully choose their toilet paper
(the human equivalent of cat litter)
since that is what they touch.
Now fast forward to the most
discriminating of domestic animals -
the cat. Since cats bury their
waste, they get down and dirty with
both the box and the litter. I have
news: your cat might think you are a
nice person but clueless about kitty
potty picking. If your cat's problem
is repulsion to the litter or box,
this data is for you!
One secret of litter retraining is
discovering your cat's toilet
preferences. Don't care you say?
Then live with scent of cat pee,
take the risks of allowing the cat
outdoors, or consider the guilt trip
of surrendering a good friend
because you were unwilling to
indulge his or her toilet
predilection.
Pick a testing room in the house
that is as quiet and neutral as
possible and ideally not a location
where the cat has soiled. Consider
options such as a laundry room,
bathroom, enclosed patio, study, or
other less used room. Plan on the
cat being semi-confined to this room
for one to two weeks. Like a college
kid participating in a clinical
study, your cat will be sequestered,
but you can make it pleasant. Make
roughly half of the room for living
- beds, scratching posts, toys, food
and water bowls - and the other half
for elimination. The goal is to
limit the toilet options.
Starting with brand new litter boxes
is preferred but not required. If
urine has reached and impregnated
into the plastic bottom of the box,
your discerning feline may balk at
the stinky odor the way you would at
an unclean porta-potty. If another
cat has used the box, your cat may
think it has been marked as private.
If recycling boxes, the proper way
to clean a cat box is with hot soap
and water, and then let it dry
thoroughly. Do not use chemical
cleaners that might leave their own
smell. Once dry, do the
litter-box-sniff-test. First, make
sure no one is watching. Then put
your head inside the clean dry box
with your nose close to the bottom
surface. If you smell anything
funny, buy a new box.
Start with three different models of
litter boxes. Your best bet is one that is large
and deep as long as the cat can
easily get in and out. The second
box must be somehow different, such
as a covered box, and the third
dissimilar from the other two, e.g.
low and long.
Litter cost and brand name do not
matter as long as three or more
options are offered. First, offer an
unscented hard-clumping litter. This
looks like fine-sand with minimal
dust. Hard-clumping litter does not
break apart when buried or scooped.
Avoid flushable.
Your second and third litter options
probably depend on what your local
pet store offers. It might be made
from processed paper, wheat or pine
pellets, corn, or even silicon. For
litter testing, offer your cat a
variety.
Start a "Poop and Pee Diary" noting
the date and time you start the
test. (Hint: don't leave this laying
around where your friends will find
it.) Number the boxes so you can
track them, and write the exact
names of each type litter that you
start with in each box. Fill each
box with two to three inches of the
selected litter. Depth matters!
Keep a pen and your secret diary in
the room where you are testing and
faithfully note the following items
for each deposit: date, time, urine
or feces, estimated volume (small,
medium, large), stool consistency
(formed, loose, liquid) and if the
deposit was covered up or not. Lack
of covering usually means the
material is undesirable. Ichk!
After two days (or an average of
five eliminations), put a different
litter in each box. Continue
rotating and testing until you
either you have a clear favorite, OR
there is no pattern. This means
either random use, or the cat just
uses the cleanest available. Now you
are ready to allow the cat gradual
reintroduction into the rest of the
house.
Allow the cat one more room or hall
in addition to the testing room. The
idea is to see if the cat returns to
the boxes, or soils the new area. If
your house is not laid out to allow
room by room enlargement of the
space, then gradually increase
time-outside-the-room. Begin the new
freedom just before feeding time.
The goal here is to use the food or
treats to reward the cat for
returning to testing room. Place the
favorite box-litter combos around
the house, and increase the freedom
daily about one hour at a time.