Aggression
is the most serious and dangerous
behavior problem that dog owners
may need to deal with. Since
there are many different types
of aggression, making a diagnosis,
determining the prognosis (the
chances of safe and effective
correction) and developing an
appropriate treatment plan are
usually best handled with a
veterinary or applied animal
behaviorist. In some cases medical
conditions can contribute to
aggression, therefore before
a behavior consultation it is
essential that your dog have
a complete physical examination
and a set of blood tests to
rule out organ
dysfunction (see our handout
‘Behavior – causes
and diagnosis of problems').
In order to treat the problem
effectively, it will first be
necessary to determine which
type of aggression your dog
displays: dominance-related,
fear, possessive, protective
and territorial, parental, play,
redirected, pain induced, pathophysiological
or medical and learned. In many
cases more than one form of
aggression may be exhibited
(see our handout on ‘Aggression
– introduction to aggressive
behavior').
What
is dominance aggression and
how is it diagnosed?
One
of the most common types of
aggression seen by veterinary
behaviorists is dominance-related
aggression. In order to achieve
security and cohesiveness within
a group or pack, a hierarchy
develops. Although the way a
dog fits into a human family
is not entirely analogous to
how it would fit into a pack
of dogs, the dog is likely to
take a position of control and
leadership or deference and
compliance in relationship to
each family member. This relationship
develops from a combination
of genetic factors as well as
what the owner teaches the dog
in its day to day training and
interactions. Furthermore, if
aggressive displays are successful
at causing the owner to retreat,
then they are being reinforced,
while any anxiety or retaliation
on the part of the owner can
promote a fearful response.
Once a dog develops a position
of leadership with a family
member (or other dog), any challenge
to that dog's leadership
may lead to aggression. Dogs
use facial expressions and body
postures as signals to display
dominance, such as standing
tall, a high wagging tail, eye
contact, or snarling. Aggression
towards family members in one
or more of the following circumstances
along with dominant signaling
may indicate dominance aggression:
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A.
Protecting resting
areas or resources (food,
toys)
B.
Overprotection
(possessive) of a more
subordinate family member
C.
Staring, eye
contact
D.
Handling by the owner
(lifting, petting, hugging,
rolling over onto back
or side)
E.
Restraint, pulling, pushing,
discipline, punishment |
Dominance
aggression must be differentiated
from fear induced and defensive
aggression, although multiple
forms of aggression can be concurrent.
If any of the above situations
lead to fear or anxiety on the
part of the dog, the dog may
respond with defensive aggression,
accompanied by fearful facial
expressions and body postures.
(For
treatment, see handout on ‘Aggression
toward family members‘).
What
is fear aggression and how is
it diagnosed?
Fear
aggression arises when a dog
is exposed to people or other
animals that the dog is unfamiliar
with or those that have been
previously associated with an
unpleasant or fearful experience.
Although some dogs may retreat
when fearful, those that are
on their own territory and those
that are prevented from retreating
because they are cornered or
restrained, are more likely
to fight. If the person or animal
retreats, acts overly fearful
or the pet is harmed or further
frightened in any way (e.g.
a fight, punishment), the fear
is likely to be further aggravated.
Fear aggression toward family
members might arise out of punishment
or some other unpleasant experience
associated with the owners.
Many cases of fear aggression
are seen as combinations or
complicating factors of other
forms of aggression (dominance,
maternal, possessive, etc.).
Fearful body postures in conjunction
with aggression are diagnostic
of fear aggression. Behavior
therapy, perhaps in combination
with drug therapy can be used
to treat most cases of fear
aggression. See handout on ‘Fears
and Phobias – animals
and people'.
What
is play aggression and how is
it diagnosed?
Play
aggression is commonly seen
in young dogs toward people
or other pets in the family.
Overly rambunctious play, along
with grabbing, nipping or biting
of people or their clothing
are some of the common signs
of play aggression. Although
it is a normal behavior, it
can lead to injuries and, if
handled incorrectly could lead
to more serious forms of aggression
as your dog matures. See also
our handouts: ‘Canine
Aggression – sibling rivalry';
‘Biting', and ‘Play
and exercise in dogs'.
What
is possessive aggression and
how is it treated?
Possessive
aggression may be directed to
humans or other pets that approach
the dog when it is in possession
of something that is highly
desirable such as a favorite
chew toy, food, or treat. While
protecting possessions may be
necessary if an animal is to
survive and thrive in the wild,
it is unacceptable when directed
toward people or other pets
in a household. What can be
confusing
for some owners is that it is
not always food that brings
out the most protective displays.
Novel and highly desirable objects
such as a tissue that has been
stolen from a garbage can, a
favored toy, human food, or
a piece of rawhide are some
of the items that dogs may aggressively
protect.
Treatment
must first be directed at preventing
possible injury. At first it
may be best to confine your
dog so that it cannot gain access
to any items that it might pick
up and protect. Dogs that protect
their food can be given a less
palatable diet, and fed in a
separate room away from family
members. Dogs that protect their
treats or toys should have them
taken away, and only allowed
access to them when alone in
the portable kennel or confinement
room. When you are available
to supervise, a long leash and
head collar can be kept attached
so that your dog can be prevented
from wandering off, and immediately
interrupted if it attempts to
raid a garbage can or pick up
inappropriate objects. Booby-traps
(shock mats, Snappy Trainers™,
motion detectors, unpleasant
tastes) can also be used to
teach your dog to stay away
from selected objects. Although
prevention can help to ensure
safety, if the problem is to
be corrected your dog will need
to be taught to accept approaches
and give up objects on command.
The goal is to train the dog
that it will receive a favored
treat or reward that is even
more appealing than the object
in its possession. The key to
success is to have good control
and a well-trained dog. If your
dog will not sit and stay, come,
or allow approach when it has
no object in its possession,
then there is little chance
of correcting a possessive problem.
For details see section on food
guarding in our handout on ‘Puppy
training – taking charge'
and our handout on ‘Controlling
stealing and teaching give'.
What
is territorial aggression and
how can it be treated?
Protective
aggression may be exhibited
toward people or other animals
that approach the pet's
property (territorial aggression).
Generally people and other animals
that are least familiar to the
dog, or most unlike the members
of the household are the most
likely "targets"
of territorial aggression. While
most forms of territorial aggression
are likely to occur
on the property, some dogs may
protect family members regardless
of the location. Territorial
aggression can be prevented
or minimized with early socialization
and good control. Young dogs
should be taught to sit and
receive a reward as each new
person comes to the door. To
reduce potential fear and anxiety
toward visitors, you should
ensure that a wide variety of
visitors come over to visit
the puppy, while the puppy is
young and sociable (see our
handout on ‘Socializing
your new puppy'). In time,
most dogs will begin to alert
the family by barking when strangers
come to the home. However the
dog that has been well socialized
and under good control can be
trained to quickly settle down
and relax. For dogs exhibiting
territorial aggression, you
will need to gain enough control
to have your dog sit, stay and
when calmed down, take a reward
at the front door. Generally
a leash and head collar will
give the fastest and most effective
control. Using a desensitization
and counter-conditioning program
(see our handout) you can begin
retraining with low levels of
stimuli (such as people arriving
in a car, walking past the front
of the house, or perhaps even
a family member knocking on
the door or ringing the bell).
The idea is that each time someone
arrives at the house or rings
the bell, the dog will come
to expect a favored reward (toy,
cheese, hot dog slice or play
session). Once the dog can be
controlled and receives rewards
in this environment, gradually
more intense stimuli can be
used. Sometimes, an anti-bark
collar, shake can, or air horn,
can be used to disrupt the initial
barking, so that the pet can
be directed to perform the appropriate
behavior and get its reward.
What
is predatory aggression and
how can it be treated?
Predation
is the instinctive desire to
chase and hunt prey. Predatory
behaviors include stalking,
chasing, attacking, and ingestion
of prey animals, but may occasionally
be directed at people or other
pets. Some dogs that have never
shown chase or predation, may
display the behavior when running
together with a group of dogs.
Although the desire to chase
can be reduced by using a head
collar and desensitizing and
counter-conditioning in the
presence of passing stimuli,
this is a very dangerous form
of aggression, which must be
prevented. Whenever the dog
is outdoors it should be confined
to an escape proof pen or run,
or controlled securely by the
owners. A leash and head collar
or a leash and muzzle, can help
to ensure safety when out for
walks. (Also see handouts on
Behavior modification –
reducing fear and anxiety –
desensitization, counter-conditioning
and flooding and Controlling
pulling, lunging, chasing, and
jumping up).
What
is pain-induced aggression and
how can it be treated?
Pain-induced
aggression is usually elicited
by some form of handling or
contact that elicits pain or
discomfort. However, even if
your dog is not exhibiting pain,
certain medical conditions (endocrine
imbalances, organ disease, etc.)
may make the pet more irritable
and perhaps more prone to aggression.
Fear and anxiety further compound
many of these cases. Once your
dog learns that aggression is
successful at removing the stimulus,
aggression may recur when similar
situations arise in the future,
whether or not the pain is still
present. Treatment first requires
that the medical or painful
condition is resolved. Next,
you will need to identify the
types of handling and situations
that have led to aggression
in the past. With desensitization
and counter-conditioning, your
dog can slowly and gradually
be accustomed to accept and
enjoy these situations. Once
the dog learns that there is
no more discomfort associated
with the handling, but that
there may be rewards, the problem
should be resolved. A muzzle
or leash and head collar, may
be the safest way to begin the
retraining.
What
is maternal aggression and how
can it be treated?
Maternal
aggression is directed toward
people or other animals that
approach the bitch with her
puppies. When bitches
go through pseudopregnancy they
may also become aggressive and
begin to protect nesting areas
or stuffed toys at the approximate
time when the puppies would
have been born. Once the puppies
are weaned and the dog is spayed
the problem is unlikely to recur.
In the interim, the owners can
use a leash or leash and head
collar, along with the come
command and rewards to teach
the dog to leave the litter,
at which time the puppies can
then be handled. With desensitization,
counter-conditioning, good control
and highly motivating rewards,
it may be possible to train
your dog to accept approach
and handling of the puppies.
What
is redirected aggression and
how can it be treated?
Aggression
that is directed toward a person
or pet that did not initially
evoke the aggression is classified
as redirected. This is likely
to occur when the dog is aroused
and a person or other pet intervenes
or approaches. Dogs that are
highly aroused must be avoided.
In some cases a water rifle,
air horn, or long leash can
be used to safely remove the
dog from the situation. If the
aggression and arousal does
not immediately subside, consider
locking your dog in a dark,
quiet room, until it settles
down and will come out for food
or play. Since redirected aggression
arises out of other forms of
aggression, it is important
to identify and treat the initial
cause of aggression (e.g. fear,
territorial, sibling rivalry,
etc.), or to prevent the problem.
This can be accomplished by
avoiding exposure to the stimulus
for aggression or by keeping
a leash and head collar or leash
and muzzle on your dog when
exposure is possible.
What
are some of the other causes
of aggression?
Aggression
associated with medical disorders
may arise at any age, may have
a relatively sudden onset and
may not fit any canine species
typical behavior. Some medical
conditions can, on their own,
cause aggression, but in many
cases a combination of behavioral
factors and medical problems
cause the pet to pass a certain
threshold at which aggression
is displayed. Infectious agents
such as rabies, hormonal imbalances
such as hypothyroidism, psychomotor
epilepsy, hyperkinesis, neoplasia,
and a variety of genetic and
metabolic disorders can cause
or predispose a dog to aggression.
Painful conditions such as dental
disease, or arthritis, and medical
conditions causing fever, fatigue
or sensory loss might increase
the pet's irritability
(see our handouts on ‘Behavior
– causes and diagnosis
of problems' and ‘Behavior
problems of older pets').
In
rare circumstances, aggression
has no identifiable etiology
and no particular stimuli that
initiate the aggressive displays.
There may be a genetic propensity
to aggression in some lines
of some breeds, but many of
the cases previously labeled
as "idiopathic",
"rage" or "mental
lapse aggression" have
been disputed and in some cases
subsequently reclassified. Only
when there is no identifiable
stimulus or cause for the behavior,
or when an abnormal EEG is documented,
should the diagnosis of idiopathic
aggression be considered.
What
is learned aggression and how
can it be treated?
Although
learned aggression can refer
to dogs that are intentionally
trained to act aggressively
on command (or in particular
situations), learning and conditioning
are also important components
of many forms of aggression.
Whenever a dog learns that aggression
is successful at removing the
stimulus, the behavior is further
reinforced. Some forms of aggression
are inadvertently rewarded by
owners who, in an attempt to
calm the pet and reduce aggression,
actually encourage the behavior
with patting or verbal reassurances.
Pets that are threatened or
punished for aggressive displays
may become even more aggressive
each time the situation recurs.
In addition, if the response
of the owner, or the stimulus
(person or other pet) is one
that evokes anxiety or fear,
the aggression is likely to
escalate.
Treatment
with flooding is intended to
teach the pet that the stimulus
is not associated with any harm
and that aggression will not
successfully remove the stimulus.
With desensitization and counter-conditioning,
the dog is not only taught that
the stimulus is safe, but that
it is associated with a reward.
(See handout on ‘Behavior
Modification, desensitization,
counter-conditioning, differential
reinforcement and flooding').
This client
information sheet is based on
material written by Debra Horwitz,
DVM, DACVB and
Gary Landsberg, DVM, DACVB.
© Copyright 2002 Lifelearn
Inc. Used with permission under
license. March 11, 2004
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