Dogs
are a highly social "grouping-living"
species that in the wild is
often referred to as a pack.
Packs have a leader that the
other members follow and look
to for "direction."
In fact, each individual in
the pack generally develops
a relationship with each other
pack member so that they are
either dominant or subordinate
to that individual. When puppies
enter our homes the family becomes
the new social group. Allowing
behaviors that are pushy, disobedient
or inappropriate may lead to
problems that become increasingly
difficult to correct.
Therefore it is essential that
all owners take control over
the puppy and gain a position
of leadership in the family
pack. This control must be achieved
by the proper use and timing
of rewards and by directing
the puppy to display appropriate
responses rather than through
physical techniques that can
lead to fear and anxiety.
When
is the best time to begin training
my puppy?
Formal
dog training has traditionally
been delayed until 6 months
of age. Actually, this juvenile
stage is a poor time to begin
training. The dog is beginning
to solidify adult behavioral
patterns, dominance behavior
is emerging, and behaviors that
they have learned in puppyhood
may need to be changed. Therefore,
it is best to begin teaching
puppies from the time they are
obtained. One important task
to begin early is to establish
yourself as the leader. This
can be done by rewarding desirable
responses, training the dog
to obey commands, avoiding the
reinforcement of behaviors that
are initiated by your dog and
training the dog to accept some
simple body handling techniques.
Are
physical exercises necessary
for gaining control?
Although
there are many physical techniques
that have been advocated for
gaining control, it is the owners'
attitudes, actions, and responses
to the new puppy (along with
the puppy's genetics)
that are most important in the
puppy becoming either well-mannered
and responsive, or stubborn,
disobedient and "domineering".
Dog
training literature has often
discussed using scruff shakes
and rollover techniques to discipline
puppies. However, these physical
techniques do not necessarily
mimic how dogs would communicate
with each other and such handling
by a human could lead to fear,
anxiety and even retaliation.
Training is intended to train
the dog what you want, rather
than discipline what you don't
want. This makes a positive,
learning environment for the
puppy to grow up in. There may
be a number of advantages to
teaching your puppy to assume
subordinate postures (on their
side, on their back, hands on
neck, hand stroking the top
of the
head, hand grasping muzzle)
but this does not mean that
they teach your dog to be subordinate
in its relationship to you.
Having an obedient, well-behaved,
dog that enjoys handling and
accepts restraint is best accomplished
through reward based obedience
training, avoiding punishment
and confrontational based training
techniques and gradually accustoming
your dog to enjoy handling.
(See body handling below).
How
can I gain control without physical
exercises?
The
best way for each family member
to take control is to teach
your puppy that each reward
must be earned. This is also
the best way to insure that
undesirable puppy behaviors
are not inadvertently reinforced.
The puppy should learn to display
subordinate postures through
reward training, rather than
through any type of force. Begin
with some basic obedience training,
teaching the puppy to ‘sit',
‘stay' and ‘lie
down' for rewards. Practice
short sessions, multiple times
each day. Whenever the puppy
is to receive anything of value
(affection, attention, food,
play and walks) the puppy should
first be taught to earn its
reward by performing a simple
obedience task such as ‘sit'
or ‘stay'. Teach
the puppy that rewards of any
sort will never be given on
demand. Also known as ‘nothing
in life is free', a term
coined by veterinary behaviorist,
Victoria Voith, or "learn
to earn" as described
by William Campbell, the puppy
must be taught that vocalization,
nipping, mouthing, overly rambunctious,
or demanding behaviors of any
sort will never earn rewards.
In fact, these behaviors should
be met by inattention, by confining
the puppy for a few minutes
until it settles down, or with
training devices and commands
that get the puppy to exhibit
the desired response. Another
option is to immediately control
and calm the puppy with a head
collar. (See our handout on
Biting – play biting and
mouthing in puppies for details).
Rewards should be given as soon
as the puppy is performing an
appropriate response.
You
should also handle your puppy
so that it will learn to accept
all forms of physical contact
and restraint. Do this when
the puppy is calm, such as after
a nap. Avoid any exercise that
leads to fear and struggling.
Be gentle, progress slowly and
only make the puppy be still
for a few seconds in the beginning
(see body handling below). Gradually
you can increase the time you
make your puppy comply.
Set
limits on the puppy so that
it does not learn that it can
control you. Having the puppy
sleep in its own bed or own
cage rather than on your bed
or couch, helps to prevent the
dog from gaining control or
becoming possessive of your
resources. When the puppy is
taken for walks it should be
taught to follow. This should
begin at the front door where
the puppy should be taught to
sit, wait, and follow, and never
allowed to lead or pull you
through the doorway.
What
should I do if my puppy misbehaves?
Undesirable
misbehavior must be prevented,
or corrected in the act. Allowing
the puppy, even once to perform
an undesirable behavior such
as entering a restricted room,
jumping up, mounting or jumping
onto the couch will serve to
reward and encourage the repetition
of the behavior.
There
will be times when your new
puppy misbehaves. How you respond
to the puppy will often influence
later interactions. Young puppies
are very impressionable. Harsh
physical reprimands are contraindicated.
They only serve to frighten
the puppy and perhaps make them
hand shy. Unfortunately, animals
can learn in one trial if something
is aversive enough. We want
young puppies to look toward
a human hand as something pleasant
that brings comfort, food and
affection. Most puppies can
be easily interrupted with vocal
intonation and loud noises.
What is equally important is
to redirect the puppy to the
correct behavior after you interrupt
what you do not like. Remember
that punishment must take place
while the behavior is occurring,
not after.
If
you catch your puppy misbehaving,
try a loud noise such as clapping
your hands or a loud "uh-uh".
Remember, reprimands need to
occur while the behavior is
happening, preferably just as
it begins, and never after.
Often puppies will be startled
when they hear these noises
and temporarily stop the behavior.
At that time you should redirect
the puppy to a more appropriate
task and reinforce with an immediate
and positive ‘good dog'.
Another
way to interrupt your puppy
is with various types of noise
devices. One such device is
a "shake can". This
is an empty soda can that has
a few pennies inside and then
is taped shut. When given a
vigorous shake it makes a loud
noise, which will interrupt
the puppy's behavior.
Another device that makes a
loud noise is the so-called
"rape alarm". When
activated they make a shrill,
loud, piercing noise, which
will startle the puppy. Ultrasonic
and sonic dog training devices
are also available (see our
handout on ‘Behavior management
products').
The
most important thing that you
can do to avoid undesirable
behavior is to supervise your
puppy. Unsupervised puppies
will chew and destroy objects
as part of their natural curiosity
and play. Rather than finding
yourself with the need to reprimand
your puppy, keep your puppy
on a leash to avoid bad behaviors.
Always provide suitable play
objects designed to entertain
your puppy so that it will not
want to destroy your possessions.
(See our handout on ‘Destructiveness
– chewing' for ideas)
Most
importantly, if you find something
that your puppy has destroyed
but you did not catch him in
the act, just clean it up and
vow to supervise your puppy
better in the future. Do not
go get your puppy and bring
him over to the mess and yell
and physically discipline him.
Remember that you need to punish
the behavior you wish to change
at the time it occurs.
If you did not see your puppy
chew up the object, all you
are doing is disciplining your
puppy for being present at a
mess on the floor. Since that
makes no sense to your puppy,
your reprimands could create
fear and anxiety, which could
lead to aggression and owner
avoidance.
What
can be done for the particularly
stubborn, disobedient, or headstrong
puppy?
Puppies
that are particularly headstrong
and stubborn might need some
fairly stringent rules. Tug-of-war
games should only be allowed
if the owner initiates the game,
and can successfully call an
end to the game, with an ‘out',
or ‘give' command
when it is time to call it quits
(see our handout on ‘Controlling
stealing and teaching give').
Rough play must not escalate
to uncontrollable play biting
that cannot be controlled by
the owner.
One
of the best management tools
for gaining safe and effective
control at all times is a head
collar. The puppy can be supervised
and controlled from a distance
by leaving a long line or leash
attached to the head halter.
The principle of halter training
is to gain control over the
dog with as much natural communication
as possible and without the
use of punishment. Positive
reinforcement is used to encourage
proper behavior. A pull on the
leash is used to disrupt misbehavior.
Since the halter is attached
to the dog's muzzle, common
behavior problems (nipping,
barking, jumping up, pulling,
stealing food, etc.) can immediately
be interrupted without fear
or pain by pulling on the leash.
The halter places pressure around
the muzzle and behind the neck.
This simulates the muzzle and
neck restraint that a leader
or mother dog might apply to
a subordinate, and therefore
is a highly effective and natural
form of control. (see our handout
on 'Management devices in dog
training').
What
types of handling should I begin
with when I start to train my
puppy?
A.
Body Handling
You will do yourself and your
new pet a favor by teaching
your new puppy to allow you
to handle his body. Throughout
the life of your dog there will
be times that you need to restrain
your dog, lift your dog or handle
various parts of the dog's
body. This may become necessary
when its time to brush your
dog's teeth, trim its
nails, give medication, or clean
its ears. Yet if you have never
handled an adult dog these simple
tasks could become impossible.
Handling also serves to simulate
the physical communication that
is exhibited by a bitch controlling
her puppies or a leader dog
over a subordinate group member.
The young puppy must be taught
to feel comfortable with this
type of handling.
Gently
handle your puppy daily. Pick
a time when your puppy is calm,
like just after a nap. Do not
try to start a body handling
exercise when your puppy is
excited, rambunctious or in
the mood for play. Place the
puppy in your lap and touch
the feet, open the mouth, look
in the ears and under the tail.
All the while, praise your puppy
for being good, even offer a
few tasty food treats. Be sure
to keep initial sessions very
short, since you want your puppy
to succeed and not struggle.
If the session is too long you
run the risk of the puppy struggling
and getting free. This could
send a message to your puppy
that it can "win".
Always set up the puppy to succeed,
but on your terms. Gradually
increase the amount of time
you control your puppy so that
no struggle ensues. Soon the
puppy will allow and perhaps
anticipate these handling sessions.
All family
members should participate in
this exercise. An adult should
supervise young children. If
you see any hesitance or reluctance
on the part of the puppy, you
will want to repeat the exercise,
until you can accomplish the
handling without resistance.
Do the same exercise a little
more gently or in a slightly
different location, and give
some tasty treats for compliance,
and progress gradually to more
difficult situations. Never
force the puppy to the point
that it exhibits fear or attempts
escape. On the other hand if
you do not gradually overcome
the resistance the puppy may
never allow the handling as
an adult. Over time your puppy
should allow you to place pressure
on the back of its neck while
it is in a down position, to
roll it onto its side, to grasp
its muzzle and to be lifted
(if it is small enough). These
forms of handling should not
be used for punishment.
B.
Food guarding, toy guarding
Another
exercise that is so important
is to acclimate your puppy to
having his food and possessions
touched by humans. Dogs in the
wild will guard their food to
prevent its loss but that is
not necessary in the home. We
are not going to take away our
pet's food and not give
it back. Handle the food bowl
while your puppy eats, pet the
puppy and perhaps lift the bowl,
place in a special treat, and
return it. When walking past
the puppy while it is eating
you can place a treat in its
food bowl, or reach down, pat
the puppy and give a treat.
This way the puppy learns to
tolerate intrusions and disturbance
while it eats and will not be
startled and react aggressively
should something unexpected
happen when eating. If the treat
you add is tasty enough, the
puppy may even look forward
to your approaches during feeding.
If any growling should emerge
you should seek professional
guidance immediately.
You
should also practice gently
taking toys from the puppy.
Quietly and calmly place your
hand on the toy and tell your
puppy "give" as
you remove it from its mouth.
Then say ‘thank-you'
and return the object as you
tell your puppy to ‘take
it'. Repeat this training
task multiple times daily in
multiple locations. At times
take the object and offer a
treat instead. This will let
your puppy know that sometimes
something better comes from
relinquishing the object. You
should be able to handle any
toy that your puppy has. This
sends the message to the puppy
that it is okay for you to handle
its possessions, and that you
will give them back. The puppy
will trust you and then when
you need to remove something
from the mouth, your dog should
accept your interference.
This client
information sheet is based on
material written by Debra Horwitz,
DVM, DACVB and
Gary Landsberg, DVM, DACVB.
© Copyright 2002 Lifelearn
Inc. Used with permission under
license. March 11, 2004.
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